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The Tomato Sandwich…a Celebration of Real Tomatoes and Late Summer.
In the Pacific Northwest, August and September is when the hefty 90 day heirloom tomatoes, like the brandywines, come ripe. It’s time to talk of tomato sandwiches, that celebration of tomatoes and summer between two slices of bread. The … Continue reading
Posted in Uncategorized
19 Comments
Julia’s Birthday Peaches
I had the privilege of working with Julia Child on her “Dinner at Julia’s” PBS series in 1983 and had kept in touch right up until the end. She was intrigued with the esoteric information I had about fish and … Continue reading
Posted in flavor, oysters, salmon, taste
Tagged birthday, brix, Copper River salmon, Dinner at Julia's, Frog Hollow Farm, Julia Child, Julia's birthday, peaches
6 Comments
New Life for an old Cast Iron Oyster Fryer
Being a culinary history, oyster and cast iron cookware enthusiast, I couldn’t resist snagging a vintage cast iron “oyster fryer” on ebay. Arriving with an impossible layer of ancient hardened grease and rust, it sat on the back porch for … Continue reading
Posted in Uncategorized
Tagged "cast iron" oysters, cookery, Delancey "brandon petit", fryer, history, vintage
8 Comments
“Boiled” Salmon
We are going to cut a whole salmon into chunks and cook them in a pot of sea-water salty water to make “boiled fish” as the Ballard Norwegians call it, keeping in mind the secret to good “boiled” fish is … Continue reading
Posted in flavor, salmon, Uncategorized
Tagged "boiled fish", "whole salmon", entertaining, poaching, pot, salmon, sockeye
7 Comments
Rainier Cherries
Nothing says summer as much as stone fruit. I’m an arch-locavore but my much-anticipated first taste of stone fruit isn’t local. No apologies. Al and Becky Courchesne at Frog Hollow Farms in Brentwood in the Sacramento Delta, growers of some … Continue reading
Posted in flavor, taste
Tagged Al and Becky Courchesne, Bing cherries, brix, cherries, flavor, Frog Hollow Farm, Rainier cherries, refractometer
6 Comments
The Art of Eating an Oyster
The holiday season is a good time to consider the Oyster. Here follows my opinionated viewpoint on how best to enjoy them. I have entitled it The Art of Eating an Oyster. I wrote the first version 25 years ago. … Continue reading
Posted in flavor, oysters, taste
Tagged aftertaste, brine, finish, glycogen, M.F.K. Fisher, mineral, oyster, oyster wine, pain de seigle, Tom Robbins
10 Comments
The Beautiful Taste: Fishing with Chefs in Boston. Fish Handling, Part 2
The flavor, texture and “mouthfeel” of a fish depends on how it is handled on deck the first three hours out of the water. Rarely is there an opportunity to demonstrate how it all works. When I learned Paul Greenberg, … Continue reading
Posted in flavor, taste
Tagged albumin, Amy Bodiker, Atlantic Striped Bass Conservation Act, Back 40, bleeding, Blue Moon II, bluefish, Boston, Boston Harbor, Bruce Sherman, Chefs Collaborative, Chefs Collaborative National Summit, Clean Water Act of 1972, current, filet, fish, fish handling, fish quality, fish story, fisheries management, fishing, flavor, fresh, Hotel Marlowe, Jennifer Maloney, juiciness, kitchen, lactic acid, Lauren Maloney, Leigh Belanger, longline, Lumiere, menhaden, Michael Leviton, mouthfeel, Neponset, Neponset Sport Fishing Charters, North Pond, Paul Greenberg, Peter Hoffman, pollution, pre-rigor, Right Stuff, rigor, rigor mortis, Robin Schempp, rod and reel, Savoy, scales, Skipper Jim Maloney, skunk, skunked, striped bass, striper, texture, The Most Important Fish in the Sea, troll
2 Comments
The Beautiful Taste: Fish handling, Part 1
When it comes to “beautiful tastes,” there is perhaps none more beautiful than the taste of fish when the season, harvest, handling and preparation all come together…when we are lucky to taste a fish as good as it can be. … Continue reading
Posted in flavor, taste
Tagged bleeding, fish, fish handling, fish quality, fishing, jig, lactic acid, longline, rigor, rigor mortis, rod and reel, scales, troll
9 Comments
Cidering: Dave and Ruth’s Annual Cider Pressing Party
Friends Dave and Ruth have a 125 year-old family cider press that Dave lugged back from Vermont. I am lucky to be included in their annual ritual of gathering apples from abandoned trees and bringing friends together for pressing them … Continue reading
Congratulations Grouse Mountain Farms On 8.2 Brix Tomato, Winner of the 2010 10.0 Brix Tomato Challenge.
In the worst summer in 30 years to grow tomatoes, we didn’t turn up a 10.0 Brix tomato in our 10.0 Brix Tomato Challenge but we did land an 8.2 Brix German Red Strawberry tomato at Liz Eggers and Mike Hampel’s Grouse … Continue reading
Posted in events, flavor, taste
Tagged brix, Chelan, Emmett Watson, German Red Strawberry tomato, Grouse Mountain Farm, Liz Eggers, Mike Hampton, refractometer, tomato, tomato challenge
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